Aconcagua - Part 4
The is the last of a four part blog series about my expedition to climb Aconcagua. Part 1 focused on the trek up the Vacas Valley, Part 2 covered our ascent to Camp 3 (Cholera), Part 3 described Summit Day, and this post will cover our descent from Camp Cholera to Plaza de Mulas and our 16-mile trek out of the provincial park.
Day 18 - Descent from Camp Cholera (Camp 3) to Plaza de Mulas (Base Camp)
- Starting Elevation = 19,638'
- Ending Elevation = 14,343'
- Elevation Loss = 5,296'
- Distance = 3.2 miles
I felt better than expected the morning after our summit bid. I'd arrived at Camp Cholera the night before with a stiff neck and back, largely because I'd been looking down at my foot placement for about 12 hours straight. Carrying my empty 105-liter Mountain Hardwear backpack didn't help either; although great for heavy loads, empty, it felt rigid, like plywood strapped to my back.
Despite my exhaustion, sleep eluded me, likely due to the altitude and the lingering excitement of having summited. But after a quick breakfast, I was ready to begin our long descent to Plaza de Mulas.
The hike down was punishing on my legs, as we skidded down over 5,000 feet of loose scree. I favored my left leg, mindful of knee pain I'd experienced earlier in the climb. My teammates and I wobbled down the slopes, as our guide Emilio put on a clinic, effectively running down the mountain at one point.
We stopped briefly at Camp 2 of the Normal Route, or Nido de Condores, before bypassing Camp Canada, which serves as Camp 1.
Reaching Plaza de Mulas stirred mixed emotions. Though Base Camp offered amenities we'd missed higher on the mountain — like bathrooms, electricity, bars, and even an art gallery — I felt a hint of sadness knowing our adventure was coming to an end.
Plaza de Mulas also had a different vibe than Plaza Argentina, our first Base Camp. For whatever reason, people just seemed happier and friendlier on the other side of the mountain.
Day 19 - Trek out of Aconcagua Provincial Park
- Starting Elevation = 14,343'
- Ending Elevation = 9,701'
- Elevation Loss = 4,642'
- Distance = 16.1 miles
On our last day of the expedition, we trekked about 16 brutal miles from Plaza de Mulas to the park exit down the Horcones Valley. I wish I'd been able to absorb more of the stunning scenery, but the endless miles of loose rocks demanded vigilance to prevent twisted ankles. We pushed forward quickly, overtaking several groups along the route.
We did have a relatively long break at Confluencia, one of the early camps on the Normal Route, which was nice. The staff there greeted us with a generous charcuterie board, cold water, and tang.
At the park entrance, we were picked up by a van, reunited with our bags at Los Puquios, and ferried back to Mendoza.
Day 20 - Mendoza
- Elevation = 2,497'
The morning after our expedition, I rode the elevator down for breakfast at the Diplomatic Hotel. The lavish array of food felt strangely unnerving; after two weeks on the mountain, such decadence seemed out of place without hard physical effort to earn it.
It had been less than a day, yet I felt a ridiculous and almost embarrassing sense of ennui. For months, I'd looked forward to and trained for this expedition. Now it was over, and I felt adrift — until I pulled out my phone and began researching new mountains to climb.
Closing Thoughts and Thanks
Climbing Aconcagua via the Vacas Valley Route was an extraordinary experience, made all the more memorable by our incredible guides, Rodrigo and Emilio. Without their expertise and support, summiting Aconcagua would have been unimaginable. I am immensely grateful for the opportunity to climb alongside and get to know such outstanding individuals.
More about Rodrigo below:
